We offer pine form Northern European and Baltic Countries. Our Northern European Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) is known as Baltic pine, Scottish pine, or Siberian pine. The wood of this pine tree is of medium density, has high strength, and is steadfast against rotting with proper processing.

Northern European Pine is well-known globally for its long-lasting resilience, ease of working with, and remarkable appearance. Pine wood is excellent for construction, millwork, furniture, components, solid and glued specialty products.

Northern European and Baltic pine fiber has been certified by NELMA a leading U.S. professional associations: * Northeastern Lumber Manufacturers Association (NELMA) (www.nelma.org)

Known for its slow span of growth which renders it to be easier to saw and to machine to a soft veneer. This particular Pine has distinct yellowish-white coloring.

The knots are tightly set and miniature in size and number. This particular Pine retains a considerable number of resin canals and is soft, lightweight, and exquisite appearance. Strength properties are suitable for building, both interior and exterior.

“Dimensional” lumber is the all-around name for framing lumber. We stock a framing grade of pine and spruce in various sizes and lengths.  However, an important thing to understand is the difference between what the board is designated and what it really measures with almost any dimensional lumber.

Our area of specialty in 2×2, 2×3, 2×4, 2×6, 2×8.

The usual lengths are 6,’ 8′, 10′, 12′, 14′, and 16′

Our Northern European and Baltic Timber is manufactured at our facilities in Europe and Eastern Europe.

How to read the stamp

An easy way to identify the suitable framing lumber for your needs.

Lumber will have natural imperfections, such as a large knot or a long split, reducing its all-around strength. But not all blemishes are noticeable. That is why every board of lumber coming out of a sawmill is appraised by a qualified inspector to give a quality stamp. This stamp reveals that a board of wood fulfills specified standards for strength and stiffness, and it also presents practical information about the variety of wood and how much moisture it contains. So follow onwards as we decode the wood grade stamp and guide you to get the most lumber for your money.

1. Species

Distinguishes the wood’s species or a group of species with similar strengths. (See example of one of “Our Wood Decode” below). While all varieties are graded at the same four levels of strength and appearance, they are not comparable strength. A board produced of Douglas fir, for instance, will cover a greater span than a hemlock board of the same size and grade. But using more considerable-sized joists of a cheaper species might save you cash-out-of-hand without losing strength.

2. Grade

Specifies lumber quality based on a grader’s visible inspection. The ranking goes from “Select Structural” (highest strength, best appearance) to No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 (lowest strength, not appealing). As the numbers go higher, quality and price go down. “Stud” is a fifth designation, suggesting it’s suited for a load-bearing wall. A general contractor can typically purchases piles of No. 2 lumber, which furnishes sufficient strength at an affordable price. Unfortunately, those piles also contain some No. 1s and Selects, to boot. He’ll pay extra for these stronger grades for selective applications, such as interior load-bearing walls.

3. Moisture Content

“Green” unseasoned lumber directly from the mill is marked either air-dried (AD) or surface-green (S-GRN). The moisture content of 19 percent or more makes it to be more affordable, but it can move unreliable as it shrinks and dries. You will get less pliant with kiln-dried (KD) or surface-dry (S-DRY) lumber, which has a moisture content between 16 and 19 percent. (KD-HT indicates the wood was also heat-treated to kill insects, a prerequisite for imported lumber.)

4. Certification Mark

Designates the accredited agency or association that manages grading accuracy, in this case, the National Lumber Grades Authority.

5. Mill 

Offers the trademark or number of the mill of origin.

Our Wood Decode

2&BTR KD-HT

We often come across many wooden products such as cabinets, chairs, vanities, tables, etc., which are either made of solid wood or engineered wood.

The question that comes to mind is What is solid wood and engineered wood?

Solid wood is a natural wood obtained from any tree, such as our Northern European and Baltic pine, Spruce, Birch, Northern European and Baltic White Oak, etc. In other words, our solid wood is lumber wood that is sawmilled directly from our forested trees. 

Therefore, we do not have any added artificial ingredients. On the other hand, Engineered Wood is made of many types of materials such as wood fibers, chemicals, resins, etc., by an artificial technique. Therefore, the outward impression of Engineered Wood can resemble natural wood, though it is not natural.

Solid Wood Vs. Plywood – OSB Wood

• • Solid wood refers to saw boards of wood obtained from trees explicitly used for making furniture and other wooden products. On the other hand, Plywood is made by gluing multiple layers of veneer with grains of each layer alternated at 90° to the adjoining layer. The veneers are thin sheets acquired by peeling logs of wood.
  • Solid wood is stronger than Plywood since it is a single homogeneous product. The stability of Plywood counts upon the strength of the glue since it bonds numerous layers jointly.
  • Solid wood tends to expand and contract significantly. On the other hand, Plywood is more dimensionally unchanging and does not expand or contract like solid wood.
  • Solid wood is suited for strength and stiffness applications, such as structural supports, shelves, decking, roof rafters, decking, etc. Plywood is suitable for making wooden products that should not warp, shrink, or crack. Some examples include desktops, storage containers, cabinets, etc.
  • Solid wood has superb aesthetics as compared to Plywood. The natural wooden impression and sense of solid wood score high in terms of aesthetics. The regarded view of Plywood needs to be hidden by a decorative material such as veneer to seem attractive to the eye.

Northern European and Baltic Spruce (Picea Abies and Picea Obovata) is another high-quality lumber from the Northern European region. as well is more known in the market as European Spruce. Its wood is white with a slight yellowish tinge. It is more difficult to process it because of an abundance of stiff twigs. However, this species has a steady white color and long fibers, making our Northern European / Baltic Spruce considerably more favored over the other European grown spruce species. Wood colors range from creamy white to light-yellow and red-brown.

Ideal and reliable whitewood lumber in framing house construction, this wood is perfect for manufacturing wall paneling, siding, flooring, and moldings and excellent material for glued beams and panels application.

Northern European and Baltic Spruce is a straight-grained wood with regular lean consistency, making sawing and machining easy. Resin canals are characteristic, allowing them to be light in weight and have medium density. The strength of Northern European and Baltic Spruce is ideal and can most commonly be used for interior and exterior building structures. They are also utilized for assembling decorative veneers. Russian Spruce from the Arkhangelsk region of Russia has extraordinary qualities and is renowned for constructing musical instruments with superior acoustic resonance.

“Dimensional” lumber is the all-around name for framing lumber. We stock a framing grade of pine and spruce in various sizes and lengths.  However, an important thing to understand is the difference between what the board is designated and what it really measures with almost any dimensional lumber.

Our area of specialty in 2×2, 2×3, 2×4, 2×6, 2×8.

The usual lengths are 6,’ 8′, 10′, 12′, 14′, and 16′

Our Northern European / Baltic Timber is manufactured at our facilities in Europe and Eastern Europe.

How to read the stamp

An easy way to identify the suitable framing lumber for your needs.

Lumber will have natural imperfections, such as a large knot or a long split, reducing its all-around strength. But not all blemishes are noticeable. That is why every board of lumber coming out of a sawmill is appraised by a qualified inspector to give a quality stamp. This stamp reveals that a board of wood fulfills specified standards for strength and stiffness, and it also presents practical information about the variety of wood and how much moisture it contains. So follow onwards as we decode the wood grade stamp and guide you to get the most lumber for your money.

1. Species

Distinguishes the wood’s species or a group of species with similar strengths. (See example of one of “Our Wood Decode” below). While all varieties are graded at the same four levels of strength and appearance, they are not comparable strength. A board produced of Douglas fir, for instance, will cover a greater span than a hemlock board of the same size and grade. But using more considerable-sized joists of a cheaper species might save you cash-out-of-hand without losing strength.

2. Grade

Specifies lumber quality based on a grader’s visible inspection. The ranking goes from “Select Structural” (highest strength, best appearance) to No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 (lowest strength, not appealing). As the numbers go higher, quality and price go down. “Stud” is a fifth designation, suggesting it’s suited for a load-bearing wall. A general contractor can typically purchases piles of No. 2 lumber, which furnishes sufficient strength at an affordable price. Unfortunately, those piles also contain some No. 1s and Selects, to boot. He’ll pay extra for these stronger grades for selective applications, such as interior load-bearing walls.

3. Moisture Content

“Green” unseasoned lumber directly from the mill is marked either air-dried (AD) or surface-green (S-GRN). The moisture content of 19 percent or more makes it to be more affordable, but it can move unreliable as it shrinks and dries. You will get less pliant with kiln-dried (KD) or surface-dry (S-DRY) lumber, which has a moisture content between 16 and 19 percent. (KD-HT indicates the wood was also heat-treated to kill insects, a prerequisite for imported lumber.)

4. Certification Mark

Designates the accredited agency or association that manages grading accuracy, in this case, the National Lumber Grades Authority.

5. Mill 

Offers the trademark or number of the mill of origin.

Our Wood Decode

2&BTR KD-HT

We often come across many wooden products such as cabinets, chairs, vanities, tables, etc., which are either made of solid wood or engineered wood.

The question that comes to mind is What is solid wood and engineered wood?

Solid wood is a natural wood obtained from any tree, such as our Northern European and Baltic pine, Spruce, Birch, Northern European and Baltic White Oak, etc. In other words, our solid wood is lumber wood that is sawmilled directly from our forested trees. 

Therefore, we do not have any added artificial ingredients. On the other hand, Engineered Wood is made of many types of materials such as wood fibers, chemicals, resins, etc., by an artificial technique. Therefore, the outward impression of Engineered Wood can resemble natural wood, though it is not natural.

Solid Wood Vs. Plywood – OSB Wood

• • Solid wood refers to saw boards of wood obtained from trees explicitly used for making furniture and other wooden products. On the other hand, Plywood is made by gluing multiple layers of veneer with grains of each layer alternated at 90° to the adjoining layer. The veneers are thin sheets acquired by peeling logs of wood.
  • Solid wood is stronger than Plywood since it is a single homogeneous product. The stability of Plywood counts upon the strength of the glue since it bonds numerous layers jointly.
  • Solid wood tends to expand and contract significantly. On the other hand, Plywood is more dimensionally unchanging and does not expand or contract like solid wood.
  • Solid wood is suited for strength and stiffness applications, such as structural supports, shelves, decking, roof rafters, decking, etc. Plywood is suitable for making wooden products that should not warp, shrink, or crack. Some examples include desktops, storage containers, cabinets, etc.
  • Solid wood has superb aesthetics as compared to Plywood. The natural wooden impression and sense of solid wood score high in terms of aesthetics. The regarded view of Plywood needs to be hidden by a decorative material such as veneer to seem attractive to the eye.